Aix-en-Provence: where to stay and eat

by M. L. Longworth

Hello Readers,

I’ve been receiving a lot of requests recently on where to eat and stay in Aix, so I decided it was about time I posted a blog about it. Long overdue! My blog post of August 28, 2018, listed ten attractions to see while in Aix, but it wasn’t a detailed list of hotels and restaurants. I’m wary of such lists, as we all have such varying needs and desires when it comes to hotels (I tend to go for cheap two-star hotels that are clean, downtown, and hopefully without televisions) but I know that many people like their luxuries, so I’ve tried to provide a balanced list for you to choose from. Restaurants are even trickier, as they change hands so frequently, so I’ve only included those that have been around for years, plus two that offer non-French cuisine.



Aquabella Hotel & Spa, 4*
2, rue des Etuves
parking, swimming pool, on the edge of the old town

Hôtel Le Pigonnet, 5*
5, avenue du Pigonnet
parking, swimming pool, fabulous garden and terrace, very good restaurant and bar. Ten minute walk to the old town. Fabulous.

Hôtel Cardinal
24, rue Cardinale, 2*
no parking but excellent location in the old town’s Quartier Mazarin. Simple clean rooms furnished with antiques.

Les Quartre Dauphins, 2*
54, Roux Alpheran
no parking but around the corner from the Hôtel Cardinal in the Mazarin.




Le Formal
32, rue Espariat

21, ave des Belges

Chez Feraud
8, rue du Puits Juifs

La Marocaine
3, rue Van Loo

26, rue des Tanneurs

Dan B, La Table de Ventabren
7 rue Fréderic Mistral, Ventabren (a hilltop village ten minutes west of Aix), 1* Michelin




Le Grillon (pictured above) and Les Deux Garçons, both on the Cours Mirabeau.


Fromagerie Lemarié
55, rue d’Italie

Fromagerie Savelli
9, rue Marseillais

Cave du Félibrige (wine, and just a few doors down there’s a craft beer shop)
8, rue des Cordeliers

There’s a new “cave” (wine shop) on the Cours Mirabeau, but I don’t know the name nor have I been in. It’s near Monoprix (also a good place for wine and food, in the basement)

La Bouffarde (for cigars)
1, rue Clemenceau


Hôtel de Caumont
3, rue Joseph Cabassol
In a beautifully restored mansion, and it also has a perfectly fine restaurant with stunning gardens and a large terrace.

Across the street is the Anglo bookshop, Book in Bar. A large selection of books and a great place to stop for a pot of tea and a scone.

Goulard, on the Cours Mirabeau, for books in French.

Musée Granet
Place Saint-Jean de Malte

Saint-Jean de Malte (Romanesque/Gothic church on the same square; lovely interior)

Cathedral Saint-Sauveur
rue J de la Roque
Make sure you visit the cloister (guided tours only, for a small donation)

Atelier Cézanne
9, ave Paul Cézanne
Paul Cézanne’s studio, which remains much as he left it in 1906.

And in 2021, Aix will be home to a new Picasso Museum, on the Place Prêcheurs!

Happy travels!